Tripolia means three gates. It was constructed in 1734, at the same time as the seven-storey Chandra Mahal. It is a gate with pretty balconies enclosed by jaalis at the top end. You will have noticed these pretty jaali screens on several important buildings. They were not there for purely decorative purposes; they had a very important function - to allow ladies to watch the processions, street scenes without being seen. These latticed balconies were for the exclusive use of royal ladies.
Walk past the gate and keep going straight. You are still in Tripolia Bazar, heading towards Badi Chaupad with many interesting things to see on the way.
Nawab Saheb Ki Haveli. Located a short distance from the Tripolia Gate, on the right side of the street, towards the east is the well-maintained eighteenth century Nawab Saheb Ki Haveli that stretches over shops 256 to 270. Though named after Nawab Faiz Ali Khan, a prime minister at the time of Maharaja Madho Singh, this haveli had several illustrious occupants. Vidyadhar Bhattacharya was the original owner who lived here to keep an eye on the construction of the new city; Ras Kapoor, the infamous courtesan became the next occupant when the haveli was gifted to her by Maharaja Jagat Singh; Nawab Faiz Ali was the last occupant and a great favourite of the maharaja so much so that when the nawab's wife died, Maharaja Madho Singh sent one of the most beautiful courtesans of that time, Gohar Jan, to help him through his time of sorrow. Gohar Jan spent many evenings in this haveli and several times the nawab himself went over to her huge haveli in his four-horse driven buggy.
The terrace of this haveli is open to tourists and presents some spectacular views of Jaipur's main streets. A lane named after Vidyadhar is located after Nawab Sahab ki Haveli.
Directly opposite this haveli, between shops 114 and 115 is Nawal Behariji's temple with a decorated doorway and a courtyard with marble pillars.
You will find a lot of shops selling paper products on the right side of the street. Other than an assortment of items like plates, cups, notebooks, streamers, caps, files and folders, look out for shops (there are several) that can give you the typically Indian notebook called bahi. A majority of businessmen in the city still prefer to maintain their accounts in these bahi khatas. No fancy computers for them! It is a tradition that has been handed down generation after generation. Another charming tradition that has survived and is still visible in some shops is the preference for floor seating. There are no counters, no chairs, just thick mattresses covered with white sheets. Enter any of these shops and request the shopkeeper, most probably an old timer clad smartly in a spotless white shirt, dhoti and saffron turban, to show you how they maintain their accounts in a bahi khata. Smaller bahis, red cloth bound and stitched, are available for sale. Good to give as gifts or to write notes.
As you walk on the left side of the street, turn in after shop no. 131 and you will find another beautiful temple, that of Shri Chandra Manoharji, better known as the temple of Neelmaniji. This temple has two courtyards and the gateway to the inner courtyard has beautiful carvings, marble pillars and paintings.
There are a lot of interesting temples here and as you walk past the utensil shops, there is an opening after shop number 162 that leads to a temple dedicated to lord Krishna called Shri Brajraj Behari. This temple has huge courtyards, carved marble pillars and beautifully painted interiors. When you come out there is a tiny shop on the left, shop number 162a, Haridas Gokulchand Pakodi Wala, which is famous for its fried lentil pakodas (dumplings). If you have a sweet tooth, cross over to the right and look for Ramchandra Kulfiwala (shop number 222).
You are now approaching the Badi Chaupad. After Choti Chaupad, this is the other important cross section. Just before the intersection, after shop number 179, there is a turning on the left with a policeman directing the traffic. Walk in through this arched entrance; it will lead you to the Hawa Mahal. The police headquarters are also located inside this complex.