You may like to explore Badi Chaupad a bit before continuing to Ramganj Bazaar. At the end of Tripolia Bazar, on your immediate left, is an interesting little temporary market (though it has been there for a few decades) that caters to women and has anything from bangles to ribbons and other trinkets. Walk through it, even though it is narrow, lined with very small shops. The area is lively and fascinating.

If you're looking at Badi Chaupad with Tripolia Bazar behind you, then to the left of Badi Chaupad is Sireh Deorhi Bazar, to the right is Johari Bazar and straight ahead is Ramganj Bazaar. When you come out of this temporary market, it will get you to the start of the Sireh Deorhi Bazar. It is easier to cross from this end of the Chaupad. On the other side is the Shri Chandrabehariji temple. It is partly concealed by a huge tree in front of the entrance but it is worth the climb. Placed next to it is another police station called the Manak Chowk Thana, an imposing building that was originally a temple. The entrance to the temple is from the side. There are some interesting shops near the police station and a corner shops sells very good ittar or Indian perfume. Ask for popular fragrances like khas, gulab and kevada. You can get a sampling in a small piece of cotton wool dipped in the strong perfume. Turn left onto the main Ramganj Bazaar now.

Ramganj Bazaar. This walk is a shopper's delight as it takes you near the famed lanes where the craftsmen live and practise crafts that have been handed down to them by their ancestors and mentors. This area has a predominantly Muslim population and the lanes and by lanes of this section are chock-a-block with artists, miniature painters, silver foil makers, printers, dyers, leather shoe and saddle makers, brass inlay workers and woodcrafters. In fact, some of the city's best artists live here. This place is good for leather, silver and antiques and good bargains are available here. After Chandpole Bazar and Tripolia Bazar, this bazaar will seem more congested and walking on the pavement is not always possible here because they are lined with temporary stalls. There are two mosques on the right of the road and nestled between them is a popular restaurant called Islami Kallu Hotel. Notice the crowd sitting just outside the hotel waiting for a free meal. The owner has been distributing free meals to the less privileged from the time he set up the restaurant. The interesting buildings are scattered on both sides of the street and are generally double storied. Located above the shops on the left is Ladliji ka Mandir, a temple dedicated to Radha, the consort of lord Krishna. There is another imposing structure, half of which is a temple and half a dispensary. It is almost always closed so you can admire the building from across the road. If you look at the building above the shops, you will notice another interesting feature - there are more residences here than commercial buildings. Some are new and some dilapidated and some original houses with their tin projections, arched windows and salmon pink colour. The by-lanes are very interesting but not recommended for the lone walker. It is best to stay on the main Ramganj Bazaar. Though a very busy and old area, there is not much in this market that would bring regular shoppers here so development has not been as fast paced in Ramganj as in other parts of the walled city. As you walk on this road, you will get to the Ramganj Chaupad.

Hawa Mahal view from Badi Chaupad

Hawa Mahal view from Badi Chaupad

Ramganj Chaupad. With Ramganj behind you, the road on the left, going northwards is the Ghoda Nikas Road, straight ahead is the Surajpol Bazaar and the road on the right is the Ghat Darwaja Bazaar. After having seen the other two chaupads (Choti Chaupad and Badi Chaupad) you will note some basic similarities in the layout, the placing of temples on the corners, the four wide streets leading from it but the similarities end here. When the chaupads were planned, Ramganj Chaupad was just as important as the other two but over the years its importance has diminished drastically. Development seems to have passed it by. After you have explored the surroundings, the next thing that will hit you is the hundreds of cycle rickshaws that are parked all around the chaupad. Nowhere else in the city will you see so many of them parked in one place.

On the left of the Chaupad, before you cross over is the house of the famous courtesan Gohar Jan. Just see it from the outside. A government dispensary occupies it now but at one time it played host to prime ministers and other important guests from the state. Jaipur had a tradition of these tawaifs who were cultured, sang beautifully and were considered artists in their own right.

Two buildings of some interest are a huge temple dedicated to Shri Murlimanoharji on the right of this chaupad and adjoining it a huge and impressive haveli called the Rajputana Haveli. This haveli has been the subject of many an architect's study. The family is quite open to having visitors dropping in so if you wish to have a closer look you may walk in. The name and telephone number of the haveli is very conveniently painted on the outside wall.

The road proceeds straight to go on to Suraj Pol, the eastern end of the city. It is a wide road, easy to walk on and not as crowded as the other areas. There are several old structures, much smaller in size than the ones you may have seen in the other areas but interesting in their own way. As mentioned earlier, Chowkri Topkhana Hazuri was one of the least developed areas and never designed as a planned residential section. For several years, it remained a sandy patch and then grew as a slum populated by labourers from outside the city. There are no fancy havelies, no decorative balconies, no painted entrances and no wide by-lanes, maybe a stray temple here and an odd building there. In the early nineteenth century, when the rest of the –°howkris had over twenty thousand people living in each of them, this –°howkri had only twelve thousand. Walk on until you see the Surajpol Gate. Outside the gate and a little further away, you will notice another gate and a hillock behind. That is the Galta Gate and not really a part of the walled city. This is the end of the walk and also the last point of the eastern side of the city. The road outside is fairly busy as it is the Delhi by-pass road. It is possible to get a scooter rickshaw here.